SALT AND CAPERS

Salt and capers from Greece

The town of Mesolongi is best known the place where Lord Byron died during the Greek war of independence. He is considered the local hero although he did not die fighting but from fever - much like Venice the town is surrounded by a lagoon, which produces both humidity and an abundance of mosquitoes.

The shallow lagoon is also the centre of Greek salt production. The fleur de sel - the natural crystals that form the uppermost crust in summer and are harvested by hand - has never been commercialized in Greece like it has in France. The workmen have, however, always collected it and used it themselves or as presents. When I was working as an archaeologist in the area I was given a sack every year and I have never again found a salt so soft, aromatic and almost sweet as this one. For the first time, a limited amount has been put in glass jars and can be sold over the counter. Try it as finger salt on a green salad with a good olive oil or our walnut oil from Dordogne! (300g, 7e)

Wild capers is a sturdy plant, which develops its full fragrance on the wind-beaten and sun-scorched Cyclades islands in the Aegean sea. We have just received this year's harvest, put in salt on the island of Syros (150g, 5,50; 250g, 8e).